DIY Hockey Stick Handling Trainer

Well I had about 15 minutes of spare time so i decided to do something productive. As you all know my son and his friends love to play hockey. They play on ice, in hallways, driveways, patios, hotel lobbies, between real hockey games, at friends houses during “play dates” (aka parents having drinks together), on skate, roller blade, knees, barefoot or wherever there is enough room to for a ball/puck and a stick. So in an effort to minimize wall, my shins and other kid damage, it’s important for them to have stick control! So, I looked on line and viewed a few different training devices, all costing $60 and up for basically a raised stick that a puck can go under. Then I was over at Chris’ house on a “play date” and he had made one for his son. Mine is slightly different as to height and securing the pucks but I’ll go over the differences and you can choose to suit your needs. For this project you will need:

15 minutes;

1 old hockey stick;

12 old pucks;

2 3/4 inch screws (12 to be exact); and

4 washers.

and you’ll have this.

Hockey Stick Handling Trainer

and save yourself from buying this


The first thing you need to do is go to the hockey rink and ask the guy who drives the Zamboni if they have any broken sticks and old pucks, and within a minute you’ll probably have more than a few. It doesn’t matter if the sticks are wood, composite or combo.


You’ll need an adult stick for the length. I cut it down to 51″ to accommodate 4 lifts on 16″ centers and it was near where the stick started to taper. (Future Project *** you can take two sticks and cut them into 16″ sections with rounded ends to the device move into different configurations. That’s for another day though.)

Remember a hockey puck is 3″ wide and 1″ in height. The best way to do this is to cut the stick then measure an 1 1/2″ in and draw a line with a paint pen. From that line measure the stick. If you are using a construction tape measure, you’ll notice at 16″, 32″, 48″ etc. in red. Makes it real easy to mark it out. Drill a small guide hole.

Hockey Stick Handling Trainer

Put that to the side and lets talk about the height. I went with a height of 3 inches for two reasons. First, I wanted it high enough to accommodate a training ball (aka street ball). Secondly, it was perfect for the 2 3/4″ screws which allow me to have a smooth puck bottom while being secure. (Chris went with the 2″ height but only uses a puck).

Hockey Stick Handling Trainer

For my first set, I pre-drilled the holes which turns out to be of absolutely no use. If it makes you feel better, knock yourself out and pre-drill the holes. Line them up and put in two screws centered up. The rubber will allow a natural counter sink.

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Once you have all 4 lifts finished align them under the lines on the stick (make sure the screws in the pucks are under the stick to avoid them loosening. Put a washer down, use the finger on each side to make sure it’s somewhat centered, and screw down. **Be careful not to over tighten if using a composite stick.


Get hockey stick out with kids and play!



Can’t decide on a team pillow case, well . . . .

So my beautiful wife has to work late, the boys are in bed, and she refuses to let me watch the next episode of Game of Thrones (which she claims not to like), so let’s make a pillow case! Now there are a couple different ways to make a pillow case but I wanted one with two different teams and an offset team cuff! So I did a hack job on some instructions to suit my project and here it is.

IMG_7807 Ava side pillow case

What you need:

1. About a 1.25 yards of fabric, on sale for $6 a yard (I got a yard of each team as I have more than one project planned); and

2. about an hour. (If I could sew probably 20 minutes). I used a loose “Z” stitch for the whole project.

Let’s get started:

First, I started by cutting two 9 in x 23 in strip (one from each team fabric) for the cuff. Make sure you have the fabric is the right direction for the cuff. As you can see in the main picture, the print on the cuff is vertical to the main print. You can make it either way to suit your pattern. In my case, for the offset teams, I cut the two 9×23 strips and sewed them together by putting the print sides facing each other as below. I used the factory edge to make it easier. Pin it and then look at it before sewing!!!

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As you can see, I was a smidgen off on my line, no big deal!

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It really helps to iron out the seams after sewing (not necessary but sure does make it easier). Now you should have a 9x45ish strip. as you can see, I can’t cut a straight line despite my ruler and piece of chalk but again, no worries. It gets folded over anyway!

Second, lets now cut the main pillow case out. You have a couple of choices. Break out the ruler and do some really dandy measuring on fabric that moves a lot or find a pillow case in the linen closet , lay it on top of the fabric, put your strait edge about 1 1/2 inches wider than the pillow case and cut. I did a hybrid of the two. I used the existing pillow case to get a rough idea and then added hem room of 1 1/2 inches with my straight ruler. Your piece should be approximately 23×30.

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As you can see, i cut one panel from each team! By now you should be feeling kinda proud because you’re half way home! Feel free to talk a little smack to your spouse about now.

Third, align the two main panels with the print side facing each other. Pin and sew down the 30 inch side. When you are finished you should have a 45×30 piece. Please check your pattern direction.


Once again, iron out the seams.

Fourth, we need to attach the cuff across the top. Now this time, use your ruler! I did it the hard way that ended up making a double stitch, no harm no foul as the saying goes. Lay the cuff face down on the top of the main panels as seen below.


Then pin in place. Fold cuff back on itself so you have a 4 inch cuff and re-pin. Make sure the team seams line up on the sewn parts. On the unfinished parts you will have excess material tat will be cut away.Your seam should end up on the inside and not leaving a visible seam on the main panel.



Now we are looking good! Our cuff is attached to our two panels and the teams are aligned on the cuff and panel! Lets close this baby up!

Fifth, fold over so print is facing print. Iron that seam! Now go get out your old pillow case again to get a rough idea on the size and length. Remember to add room for the hem. It should end up being approximately 21 x 27.


Chalk your lines an sew sew sew! Make sure to go back and re-enforce areas where you are going to trim off your closing stitch, if it happens to be in the excess area. I always re-do all the corners to be safe. Thread is cheap.

Sixth, Cut off the excess.


And you end up with this:

IMG_7804 IMG_7805 Ava side pillow case IMG_7807

Pat yourself on the back, job well done!